Tèt Chaje

Tèt chaje.

Overwhelmed.  That’s what I’m feeling right now.  I’ve tried to blog about my return to Haiti, but every time I’ve thought about doing so, I don’t even know where to start.  So much has happened—lots good, some not so good—that I find it hard to put into words.

The week of September 2 was supposed to be a week of teacher in-service, but it wasn’t like any teacher in-service that I have been a part of.  Most of that had to do with the fact that many staff couldn’t make it each day due to the gas shortage.  Not much public transportation because there wasn’t gas to put in vehicles.  And, the price for a ride has increased; in some cases, the price of a ride is more than the average person can afford.  These prices aren’t that high to begin with (according to American standards), but now they are up to about $.25 a ride.  Up from $.15.  So, teacher in-service week was pretty much teachers just cleaning their rooms, making decorations, and doing some planning.  No meetings.  No motivational speeches.  No learning new things that teachers can implement in their classes.  Very anti-climactic.

The first week of school is supposed to be exciting—new students, old students coming back, everyone in new uniforms, new books and supplies.  A fresh start!  But in Haiti, the first week of school seems to be optional.  As in, most parents don’t send their children the first week. Teachers go to all the trouble to decorate and plan, and then pretty much no one shows up.  Not much happens because teachers don’t want to do too much because most of the kids aren’t there.  Therefore, the second week of school is really the first week because it’s not until then that the majority of the kids show up!  Crazy!

I’ve heard various reasons for this phenomenon: parents won’t send their children without a proper uniform and shoes; parents want to make sure that any evil spirits that took up residence in the building during the summer are chased away before sending their kids; parents haven’t been able to pay the entrance fee, so their kids can’t go right away. Regardless of the reason, the first day of school is a huge let down for me!

This year, unfortunately, the start of school has been hindered even more.  We did have school the first week with very low attendance (about 10 kids in addition to Gertrude’s 26).  But, this week—the 2^nd week of school which is supposed to be when all the kids come and things really get going—we’ve had to cancel school for three days due to violence and lack of gas.  Not only are some streets not safe, but many of the teachers can’t find public transportation to get to school.  We’ve had teachers wait for over two hours to find a taptap to get to work. Some have walked miles to get to a taptap stop so that they could come to work.  That’s dedication.  

The gas shortage and the violence aren’t just affecting schools.  It’s affecting the entire country, and the poor are suffering the most.  A good friend of mine and his family are down to their last small bag of rice.  Even though stores are open, he can’t just go to the store to buy more rice because that’s not how most Haitians get their food.  They go to the local market on the street.  But, because there has been so little gas and so few deliveries, the street merchants don’t have much to sell.  And what they do have to sell has become SUPER expensive.  That’s happening with all food, not just the rice—beans are more expensive, eggs are more expensive, Corn Flakes are more expensive.  I think you get the idea.  

            At least in the city there is the opportunity to find what one needs: water, food, gas, etc.  It will be crazy expensive, but it could be found.  Not so much in the countryside.  Burning tires, blocked bridges, and barricades make traveling in the countryside dangerous.  Many deliveries can’t be made because it’s not safe or there is no gas.  So, nothing gets to the people in the rural areas, and what they have to deliver to the city can’t get in.  It’s a vicious cycle in which everyone loses.  Except the rich.

            Someone asked me the other day whether anyone can lead Haiti out of its cycle of corruption.  My answer was “I don’t know.”  And I don’t know.  I don’t know what needs to change in this country so that elected officials actually do their job instead of skimming so much money off of projects to line their own pockets.  And the pockets of their families.  All I know is that what’s happening can’t continue.  Too many people are suffering.